It helps to have something like a block of wood under an elbow or a floor jack to help hold the pump when it does not go in perfectly on the first try. Reassemble the linkage and adjust as per the shop manual instructions. Other possibilities are a defective relief valve or a ruptured oil tube that goes from the pump base to the top cover. The issue that I am having is with the lifting of an implement on the 3pt. Nov 11, 2020 / 3 Point Lift Lever "stop?" #9 Tinhack I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). I mite as well add my opinion in on the rocker ware Welding is my call? Are you having trouble with your Ford 8N hydraulics? If a leak gets worse than a few drips, fix it. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. Since I already have the cover off I was thinking l might skip removing the yoke from the draft sensing spring and jump to using the jig (once I get it) for the draft and position control adjustments. "width": 200, If you get the jig and follow the instructions you then will know if you need the split washer not after you install the lift.. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. Here is the pic. "logo": { I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. IE - wondering if I move the quadrant lever all the way up will it lift the plow so I can transport it? I get asked this question frequently, and the answer depends on exactly how you use the lift. If the implement drops as soon as you push the clutch pedal in, you have major leakage. ditto that. Thanks for te help. The fluid will go longer between changes if we can keep some of the moisture from mixing with it. Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. If you plan to flush it anyway, drain the plugs in any order you want. "datePublished": "2001-10-31", Dean It must be straight. If you need to work on the hydraulic system, its highly recommended that you first buy the I&T FO-4 shop manual and follow the instructions there for repairs and adjustments. It makes a big difference. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. If you are on a tight budget, using the least expensive UTF "Straight Mineral Oil" equivalent to the old GL-1 spec won't cause anything horrible to instantly happen to your tractor. That is all you need, any more will just leak past the axle seals and get on your brakes. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. John Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. It is critical. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. FORD 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 601 800 TRACTOR LIFT CONTROL LEVER 9N512A . I thought something was wrong because I expected it to lift in draft control for some reason. ", I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. A weak lift may not work at all with synthetic fluid. When it stops, tighten the plug. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. So, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the dowell? I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. Any suggestions? and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. Be sure to have a good welder do it. Here are some suggestions to get you started fixing your tractor. If its knocking loudly you should buy a pump repair kit and do a rebuild before it quits all together. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. Just give them a ring to get started. "@type": "InteractionCounter", How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. To check these, leave the side cover off and start the tractor. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", I don't have a welder. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. "text": "I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. "dateModified": "2015-06-09", I also removed the lift cover and checked and adjusted the constant draft and position control springs and replaced the neoprene and leather rings on the ram piston. }, To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. "@context":"https://schema.org", Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. Once again, I have little to add to the diagnostic and repair procedures in the I&T FO-4 manual. I'll send an e-mail to your site. If you don't have tools to straighten what is bent, new parts are available. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. of the hydraulic touch control lever and lift arms to be sure they were not moved while making the adjustments. "description":"Discussion of Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. Luckily the tractor gets little work. Terms and Privacy Policy, Shows and EventsF/FCA ShowsFeatured ShowsPrevious F/FCA Shows, ServiceMaintenance & RepairsOriginal AccessoriesSherman TransmissionsSpecifications & Data, Equipment RegistryEarly 9N by S/NRoad Maintainer Registry, Restorations150 80N Show Tractor47 8N Restoration8N Funk Conversions8N LawnmowerSOS LawnmowerSt Jude 8n ProjectWorthington Tractors. This is a very common complaint and can almost always be attributed to a worn cam follower pin in the lift control linkage. I've seen a 1200-pound round bale on a 3-point bale spike on the back of an 8N, but he also had a loader bucket on the front to help balance the weight. $14.99 . If after installed I need further adjustment I'll use the split washer trick. "mainEntityOfPage": { "mainEntityOfPage": { ", (Long), Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment. Another question if I may. This is usually a sign of a defective or sticking valve in the pump. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just beat it flat that's all you need to do Do you have the lift cover off if so wait for the jig you may not need the washer trickBut if you do you may have to get different thickness washers I have found you can move the draft plunger in to far by using a washer that's to thick All in said and done preform the first step adjust the draft control as Zane instructed the rest will fall into place Life will be good welding is your call welding is your call Welding is my call? There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. If you have an implement on the lift and it drifts down over a few minutes time after the tractor is shut off you have some leakage. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. Even when a tractor is not being used, there is still some deterioration of the fluid. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll let you know how I do. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. If that link is bent, it needs to be straightened in a vise or press. "@type": "ImageObject", It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Many times you will find that simply replacing the worn pin will take care of the problem without any further adjustments, but you have to completely reassemble the tractor to find out if you are lucky or not. If its really stuck tight, youll have to pull the pump and rebuild it. I do see it is bent as well. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. Remove the top cover and place it bottom side up on the workbench. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? Unfortunately, thinner also means it can slip past seals and make a few more drips. Draining this water is easy to do. There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. I don't have a welder. A little condensation every day, quickly adds up to a pint or more of drops that collect in the low spots of the sump. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. Any comments would be welcome. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. Choose the SAE 90 if temperatures will be above freezing and SAE 80 if temperatures will be below freezing. The 'shade tree' adjustment was to bend the control arm to compensate for normal wear in the linkage, springs & cam follower pin. Small leaks tend to get bigger, but you should be able to judge if your leaks are bad enough to have to remove the top cover and fix them. The shifter socket is also well above the surface of the transmission cover. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. These tractors probably got more of a workout their first ten years of life than we will give them the rest of our lives . Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. 4 - Do you leave your tractor parked outside? The NH-410B is the current New Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D. Time for a pump rebuild. Ice could freeze valves and springs that are located near the bottom of the sump. Look at the area around the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the pump to the top cover. The oil sump holds 5 gallons that is shared with the transmission and rear end of the tractor. Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. } Our property is covered with Douglas Firs. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin. Make a Thanks for the suggestion. 3 - Is it below freezing now? Disassemble the control linkage until you can get the part with the worn pin out of there. }, Tractor Identification & History, About F/FCA That left only a small amount to drain from the two big plugs. Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. John Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. The position control pin and the control arm were both bent. The Operator's manual says to change the fluid every 600 hours. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? Am I missing something? Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. If necessary, make a new mark that corresponds to the correct level. Support the lower links near the raised position, and place the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant. My pic is attached. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. }. So, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the dowell? If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. Draining water as it collects in the sumps can help to extend the fluid change interval, but fluid does not last forever. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). The cam follower pin looks perfectly cylindrical. Never force anything! My lift works by itself but not with a heavy load on it.. (gritting of the teeth) How's this procedure Zane? . To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in.